Join Cassandra as she explores an alternative to Champagne.

There is great variety and exceptional value in Loire sparkling wine. Today we are tasting a few examples including:

- NV, Gratien & Meyer, Cremant de Loire, Saumur, France RRP: $23 (AU distributor - Fourth Wave Wines - this is available at Dan Murphy's here)

A great value, well-made, and accessible Crémant de Loire. Chenin blanc 40%, chardonnay 40%, cabernet franc 15%, pinot noir 5%. Opening with green apples, ripe peach, and wildflower honey, and leading onto a generous palate filled with pear skin, white florals, lemon pith, a chalky minerality and a nuttiness on the palate. The slightly coarse bead is forgiven thanks to an overall smooth mouthfeel, retaining freshness even with 12g/L residual sugar.

- NV, Jo Landron, Brut Atmosphères, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, Nantes, France RRP: $52 (AU distributor - Bibendum)

Hailing from the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine appellation, Jo Landron was one of the first Domaines to receive certification for organic and biodynamic practices. This is a stellar wine produced from folle blanche grapes. Minerality is the name of the game here; a stormy day at the beach filled with ocean spray, fresh seaweed, brine, minerality, wet stone, blanched almonds, and green pear. The maritime salinity and acid drive cry out for this to be paired with oysters. Great phenolics and length too.

- NV, Bernard Fouquet, Domaine des Aubusieres, Vouvray Brut, Loire, France RRP $35 (AU distributor - World Wine Estates)

100% chenin blanc from Vouvray AOC. Lime zest, apple pie, white florals, lemon pith, and an enticing hint of spice. The palate follows through with a consistent bead, round mouthfeel, and a long line of acid leading towards a crisp finish. Plenty is going on here, including a tarragon herbaceousness alongside the generosity of fruit. Vibrant and fresh, with great length, this is another excellent value sparkling from Vouvray.

- 2018, Domaine Francois et Julien Pinon, Vouvray Brut Non Dosé, Vouvray, France RRP: $64 (AU distributor - Mosaique Wines)

A 100% organic chenin blanc, zero dosage brut from Vouvray, this was an absolute joy. Blanched almond, stewed green apples, apple blossom, white florals, rose petals, and an oyster shell chalky minerality. The palate continues with baked tart crust, pear skin, lemon curd, sweet spices, and crisp white nectarine. A lovely texture, with a lacy and fine bead that lingers. The shape balloons, offering up a generous mid-palate weight before a lifted finish and integrated acid drive. Balanced, complex, elegant and lengthy.

- 2019, Francois Chidaine, Montlouis Brut Nature, Montlouis sur Loire , France RRP: $67 (AU distributor - Bibendum)

From the appellation of Montlouis sur Loire, just over the river from Vouvray. Francois Chidaine is well respected as one of the greats when it comes to dexterity with chenin blanc. The terroir shines through with sublime fruit, texture and complexity. Green apple, lemon juice, intense jasmine blossom, hay, crushed grass, and sumptuous honeyed notes. A full body and creamy and fine bead with an uplifting saline thread curling through the lemon butter and shortbread loveliness. A thoughtful wine.

The other wines tasted in my story below are available via French Flair and Terroir Selections.

Read the full tasting notes in this article in The Wine Magazine here:

Taste Your Vino - Swan Valley Grenache

The Swan Valley is one of Australia's oldest wine regions and is just 30 minutes from Perth.

Traditionally known for fortified wine and chenin blanc, the valley is increasingly recognised for detailed and layered grenache. The 2021 Mandoon Estate Discovery Series Grenache made waves at the 2022 James Halliday Grenache challenge when it won the best Grenache in the country from over 160 entries.

Join Cassandra Charlick as she chats with Mandoon's Chief Winemaker Ryan Sudano and vigneron Andrew Pruyn about the grenache project at Mandoon Estate and the development of grenache throughout the Swan Valley.

Mandoon Discovery Grenache | Cassandra Charlick | Taste Your Vino

What springs to mind at the pop of a bottle? Without a doubt, most of us think “Champagne, yes please”. And while Champagne is, without question, one of the greatest interpretations of sparkling wine, there is a wide world of bubbles out there that are well worth exploring.

Recently I had the privilege of attending Howard Park’s Global Sparkling Tasting, and the day provided a rare opportunity to taste the breadth of variety to be found in the world of fine sparkling wines in one place. Nic Bowen and the team at Howard Park pulled together an interesting and diverse lineup, and while some of these bottles remain nigh on impossible for consumers to source, the below round-up will give a great starting point for your exploration, and some names to look out for when you next travel to one of these wine regions. Alongside Nic, the panel included Aussie sparkling winemaking royalty and winemaker at House of Arras Ed Carr, alongside Western Australia’s own Erin Larkin, who writes and reviews on the global stage for The Wine Advocate.

With 23 wines tasted in total, as well as a few fun dosage vs non-dosage examples, I’m going to break this post into two parts. The world of sparkling wine is a vast one, and hopefully, in the next few minutes of reading, you’ll be inspired to head out and try something new the next time you reach for a bottle of bubbles.

Mid-tasting at the Howard Park Global Sparkling Tasting
Tasting at the Howard Park Global Sparkling Tasting


Avant-garde sparkling wine is where the experimental wines and curveballs sit. Yes, there were several pet nats with varying degrees of character, but this bracket also had a few enjoyable surprises. In Ed’s words, “these wines make a lot of noise”. Whether you are a purist and enjoy the classic sparkling expressions, or you’re a fan of the natural wine movement and alternative winemaking methods, there is certainly a place for wines of this style, and if a wine is delicious then it should always have a place at the table and in the marketplace.

I’ll share my thoughts below:

2021 Ravensworth Riesling Ancestral – Australia

One of Australia’s best examples of the pet nat, or method ancestral method. Nashi pear on the nose, with a crunchy fresh palate. Perhaps a touch thin, but with juicy acidity that creeps up the sides of the mouth. Oodles of texture, with a hint of ripe pineapple giving way to a savoury finish. If I’m going to crack open a bottle of pet nat on a hot summer’s day, this is the type of bottle I’d like to enjoy. 89 points.

NV Follador Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze D.O.C.G. – Italy

A highlight of this bracket and a unique winemaking technique. Grapes are frozen and the juice is extracted as close to the skin as possible. Six months of aging in Charmat tanks provides a creaminess that isn’t the norm for prosecco. Pale lemon in colour with a less pronounced, yet thoroughly enjoyable effervescence. The nose is heady ambrosia, lifted with white florals layered on top of tinned pears and a restrained nuttiness. Ripe apricots and luscious honeyed notes await on the palate. A textural delight, this has length and weight that belies its brightness. 94 points.

2018 Colet-Navazos Extra Brut – Spain

Mid gold and packs a punch with tertiary autolytic notes, and a ripe fruit spectrum. Close your eyes and it’s like walking into a spice bazaar. Cinnamon, clove, and cardamom for a start. Macerated pears, pink lady apples, butterscotch and a distinct flor-type note on the palate. This makes complete sense given that the wine is crafted with a dosage from sherry, it’s aged in sherry barrels, and it has been fermented with a flor yeast. A vibrant and interesting wine – bring it to a dinner party and you’ll have guests stumped. I’m a fan. 93 points.

2018 Benoit Lahaye Jardin de la Grosse Pierre – France

A field blend in a pale shade of copper and a touch of cloudiness. The nose is resplendent with candied nuts, chestnut honey, white florals and a slight note of kerosene. An explosion of pear skin, spice, and nutty autolysis in the mouth finishing with a hint of balsamic. Impressive length and a chalky texture. Pear cider for grownups. 92 points.

2014 Podere Pradarolo Vej Metodo Classiic – Italy


NV Gosset 12 Ans de Cave 4 Minima – France

The oldest champagne house, Gosset was founded in 1584 by Pierre Gosset and while the production quantities have never been sizeable, the quality has been consistently impressive. Only 12,000 bottles of this wine were made: bottles in 2007 and disgorged in 2019, it’s an example of how long lees aging can impact a wine that hasn’t undergone malolactic fermentation. Light gold in colour, the nose opens up with floral honey notes and nougat. This wine is all about autolysis, with flavours of lemon curd, marzipan, fuzzy apple notes and chewy nougat.

This article was first published in the August/September edition of The Wine Magazine (Gourmet Traveller Wine). See the original here.

It’s not all stunning scenery and superb cool-climate wines in the north of Tasmania. Just kidding: that’s exactly what awaits – and more – in this richly diverse region of Australia.

From the moment you step off the tarmac in Tassie, there’s something distinctively different about this corner of Australia. Yes, the scent of eucalypt in the air and the ‘Lookout for roos’ road signs are clear pointers you’ve not crossed international borders, but the air seems fresher – the southerly breeze hits Hobart after travelling just 5,785km from Antarctica’s icy peaks. The island’s landmass is incredibly diverse from rainforests to snow-capped mountains. And the people of Tasmania? Well, they have a quiet confidence that would win the World Cup if warm hospitality and pride in produce were a sport. You’ll want to put aside at least 48 hours to explore the wineries of Northern Tasmania from a home base in Launceston. With a couple of days up your sleeve, you’ll barely scrape the sides of the region, so don’t be surprised that you’ve booked a return trip before departure.

Day One

There’s no better way to kick off a weekend in Launceston than with a refreshing walk along the Cataract Gorge. Starting in the heart of town, take the time to walk towards the botanical gardens and back to grab a caffeine hit. Coffee is taken seriously in Tassie – after all, it is only an hour from Melbourne by plane. Sweet Brew ( sweetbrew.com.au) is a caffeine haven, while if you like freshly baked pastries and house-churned butter with your coffee, then Bread and Butter ( breadandbuttertasmania.com.au) is a must. The warehouse-style space with smiling staff and hot buttery aromas wafting from behind the counter is topped off with bottomless filter coffee. 

Sinapius cellar door
Sinapius cellar door

As the Tamar River twists and turns its way down from the Bass Strait, it slices the land in two, crafting some very different aspects for wine growing. Wind (or should that be wine?) your way up the eastern side of the river, toward Piper’s Brook where some of the region’s oldest vineyards sit. A late morning venture up the driveway of Sinapius ( sinapius.com.au) is a jaw-dropping start to any journey. The drystone walls were painstakingly handmade by the original founders, however, it was Linda Morice and her late husband Vaughn Dell who fell in love with the site and took over in 2005, beginning a period of radical vineyard transformation.

Morice is a woman of strength and genuine hospitality. “Sinapius was driven by my husband wanting to push the boundaries and see what can be done. So much wine in Tasmania has been made traditionally; my husband travelled a lot and researched a lot and would ask, ‘Why can’t we try that?’ The only way you find out is by trying it. Luckily we grow the wine as well as make the wine, so we get to see the full circle. It doesn’t matter if we are making small runs of wine; they are interesting and so much more enjoyable. You are also genuinely responding to the year you get. It’s a story and a reflection of the year that was, and a reminder that some things are out of our control.”

The bright and open cellar door was renovated a couple of years ago and reflects the wine produced here – pure, elegant and evocative of the vineyard it comes from. “It’s important that you see the vines from the cellar door.” Tastings are A$15 and include a sample of six wines from across the range. “We aim to produce super-premium wines that are interesting, distinctive and really speak of where they were grown and how they were grown. There’s a creative element that also comes in – we’ve got 14 varieties in high-density plantings here.”

Next up, head to neighbouring winery Delamere ( delamerevineyards.com.au). Shane Holloway and Fran Austin purchased the estate after having their eye on it for some time. With 15 years under their belt at their winery and a wealth of experience prior (Holloway was winemaker at Dalrymple and Austin at Bay of Fires), they have seen a big shift.

“People are now travelling specifically to come and see the wine and what’s going on,” Holloway says. “We’ve become a lot more destination-based. And as a result, the wine business is starting to reflect that. Tassie is less than one per cent of the Australian wine industry but we have a demand that’s five or six per cent. It’s a good problem to have as a producer.”

Sparkling wine makes up most of the production, with the traditional method completed on-site; Holloway is a big advocate of the importance of locality when it comes to wine. “I think the biggest thing that we miss with terroir is that it also reflects the culture in which a wine is made,” he says. “I think that cultural aspect to wine is probably more important than anything else.” The community that has developed the wine industry in Northern Tasmania is as much a part of the terroir as the soil. “We don’t care what anyone thinks, we just go and make wine and then we go and find like-minded people that like what we do. And I think that’s healthy because provenance is still a really important part of every single one of our brands. It gives a sense of place; you’re now seeing there is a new wave of winemaking that is happening.”

To finish up, settle in for a tasting flight (booking is essential and starts at A$15), find a spot to relax in the garden and pick your picnic from the fridge, with local producers on offer such as Bay of Fires Cheese, Casalinga Gourmet Meats, and Coal River Farm.

Once you get back to town, pop into The Pinot Shop to peruse a few more shelves of great local wine before heading onto Havilah ( havilahwine.com.au) for one last tasting of the day and a casual dinner at this relatively new to the scene wine bar/shop. Cellar Door Sundays are when you’ll find the venue operating as a cellar door for their two wine brands. Walk-ins are welcome, and there are plenty of veggie options alongside charcuterie and an enviable French cheese selection.

Day Two

By now, you’ll have a taste of the generosity of the people and the produce in Northern Tasmania. This itinerary is as much about the wines as it is about the people and these are all intimate, small family producers. Many of them sell out each vintage, as the wines are made with heart and soul, and speak of the place – fruit intensity here is at a peak and there is a distinctive difference from the southern parts of the state. 

Kick-off with a choice between two wineries to start the day. Start at Holm Oak ( holmoakvineyards.com.au) from 11am for a seated flight at Bec and Tim Duffy’s winery, where they have been crafting wine with love since 2006. Take a pinot ‘Winemaker’s Choice’ flight, or take your pick of eight wines from the range which is increasingly focused on utilising natural ferments and clonal variation when it comes to pinot.

Moores Hill cellar door
Moores Hill cellar door

Alternatively, head to the furthermost winery of the trip at Ghost Rock Winery ( ghostrock.com.au), before winding your way back to Launceston. It’s about an hour’s drive to get there, but the journey is well worth it – not only for the wines but also for the sunlit eatery with sweeping views. If you skipped breakfast, now’s the time for a bite to eat with your vino, otherwise simply taste through the collection. Bookings are essential for both lunch and tastings, and are available from 12 pm.

The next stop is about a 25-minute drive from Holm Oak, and one of Tasmania’s most sustainable cellar doors. Moores Hill Winery ( mooreshill.com.au) is completely powered by 108 solar panels and collects all of its roof water. Wastewater is treated on-site and conservation is always the aim when possible. Winemaker Julian Allport has finessed the application of their philosophy down to the smallest of details, with both hands firmly in the action from start to finish. The intimate cellar door is cosy in the cooler weather, and open and breezy on warmer days. Wine flights are best complemented with a light lunch of a grazing board or seafood plate. 

The final stop has won accolades not just for its wine, but also the newly minted cellar door. Sweeping views stretch from Stoney Rise (stoneyrise.com) and you’d be hard-pressed to find a more heavenly way to finish the day – especially when the sun is shining. The stylish and geometric lines of the building are softened with indoor plants while floor-to-ceiling windows frame the postcard-worthy views. Winemaker and owner Joe Holyman tells me, “We opened a year ago. The concept was that we don’t want it to be like anyone else’s cellar door. Our thought was that we have a proper wine list. It’s almost like a wine bar rather than a cellar door.”

Stoney Rise Cellar Door
Nat Mendham: Stoney Rise Cellar Door

If you’re feeling peckish, enjoy a mid-afternoon snack (food orders close at 3 pm). French cheeses and imported La Belle-iloise sardines, Fork It Farm pâté de tête and roast pistachios. Simple pleasures such as these provide the ideal accompaniment to the international wine list.

Bottles for the Boot

2020 Sinapius Clem, A$38

A field blend of seven low-yielding varieties, the fruit enjoys a natural ferment on skins for 12 days, producing an interesting orange wine with persistent flavour intensity.

2019 Sinapius Close Planted Chardonnay, A$57

Full malo, wild yeast and fruit from high density plantings. A chardonnay with gentle acidity, well balanced and a sense of effortless clarity. The work in the vineyard is apparent in the fruit. Think grapefruit and oyster shell.

2015 Delamere Blanc de Blancs, A$70

There’s an elegance and delicacy to the chardonnay in this méthode champenoise blanc de blancs. Complexity and length with classic oyster shell minerality.

2018 Delamere Hurlo’s Rosé, A$80

A serious Australian rosé. Savoury, complex and ageworthy – almost chardonnay-like in its complexity and weight. Whole bunch pressed, wild ferment and a year in barrel lets the intensity of the fruit sing. Great length, too.

2020 Stoney Rise Pinot Noir, A$32

A great value pinot from northern Tassie. A drink now, approachable pinot with mouth-watering acidity and layers of flavour that belie the price point. At 11.5% it’s also the perfect lunchtime drop. This wine makes up 70% of Stoney Rise’s total annual production.

2021 Stoney Rise Grüner Veltliner, A$32

Do yourself a favour and try this wine. Green apple, almond, and oodles of texture thanks to a healthy dose of lees stirring. Holyman suggests pairing with abalone, and abalone is always a good idea.

2019 Haddow & Dineen Private Universe Pinot Noir, A$50

Jeremy Dineen’s touch is evident in this sublime pinot. Whole bunch ferment from a unique site. Intense, structured, thoughtful. They don’t have a cellar door so keep an eye out for this label.

2019 Haddow & Dineen Grain of Truth Pinot Gris, A$50

A stellar wine from this producer. A little bit of malo and a complexity of flavour bursting with fresh peach, bright apple, honeyed nuts. Textural and intense with a piercing purity of fruit at its heart.

2021 Ghost Rock Supernatural Pét-Nat, A$30

A fun wine and dangerously easy to drink. The field blend of pinot noir, chardonnay and sav blanc is an electric shade of flamingo pink. A whack of pomegranate on the nose is followed by gentle fizz that hits the back palate.

2021 Ghost Rock Supernatural Pinot Noir, A$30

Wild ferment, no fining, no filtration, low SO2 and packs a flavour punch for a pinot under the $30 mark. Vibrant red fruit and black pepper. Equally delicious chilled.

2019 Holm Oak Wizard Pinot Noir, A$65

A merry-go-round of chocolate and macerated strawberries, raspberries and a hint of liquorish, juniper and spice among the earthiness. A nice amount of grip on the palate and a lingering finish.

2021 Moores Hill Riesling $35

A lick of residual sugar is perfectly balanced with a clean acid drive. White florals give way to a mouth-watering plate of lemon and lime. This wine is crying out for a plate of oysters.

This article was first published in Halliday Magazine. See the original story on their website here.

There’s a lot to love about cabernet franc, which is stepping out of its long-held supporting role and into the limelight.

Often sitting quietly in the shadow of heavyweight cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc can be mistaken as a blending grape to help Bordeaux blends rise to glory. However, it’s time to take another look at this variety, which is responsible for some of the world’s most complex yet quaffable wines.

Unlike cabernet sauvignon, there are plenty of examples of top-tier cabernet francs that are delicious when young, thanks to their approachable tannins and inviting aromatic profiles. Bruce Dukes at Margaret River’s Domaine Naturaliste has chosen the variety for one of his flagship wines – Le Naturaliste Cabernet Franc.

“It’s got super-fragrant aromatics when fully ripe, and the beautiful blue fruit has flavours like boysenberries and blueberries,” Bruce says. “The tannins are soft and velvety, and you can enjoy all this freshness of fruit and many of the beautiful notes of cabernet sauvignon, but with a tannin ripeness so you don’t have to mature the wine.”

Bruce Dukes of Domaine Naturaliste
Bruce Dukes of Domaine Naturaliste

Often grown in smaller amounts than cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc was initially planted with the intention of blending. However, as Michael Kerrigan of Margaret River’s Hay Shed Hill says, as a single-varietal wine, it has found a loyal fan base. “We run out within four months of release of our Block 8 Cabernet Franc. It has a strong following and is only available at cellar door,” he says.

“I think there’s a degree of instant gratification nowadays with wine drinkers. Less people are interested in sitting and waiting for years for a wine to age. For a very good cabernet sauvignon, you need to give it time, and I think there is less willingness to do that now, hence the popularity of cabernet franc.”

Age can also work in the grower’s favour when it comes to this variety. Hickinbotham winemaker Christopher Carpenter of McLaren Vale says despite the fact their cabernet franc vines are relatively young, having only planted them in 2014, it’s no obstacle to quality. “That first year I was excited because it was so bloody good right out of the gate. With its black tea and red fruits, floral red notes and olive tapenade, it’s turned out to be a winner,” he says. “I’m a firm believer in allowing vines to acclimate to their environment, and you can see the quality over the years continues to improve."

While all grapes reflect the place they’re grown, cabernet franc truly expresses its site, as seen with a number of producers who make very different single-vineyard styles within their collections.

“We have a single-varietal cabernet franc as well as our icon Olmo’s Reward, which is a cabernet franc-led blend,” says Elizabeth Smith of Frankland Estate in Western Australia’s Great Southern. “Our 100 per cent cabernet franc is sourced from a single block and is a lighter, more delicate wine, with pretty, floral aromas. The rest of the vineyard produces a more structural expression with darker fruit and has the potential for good ageing. This is the ultimate match for our Olmo’s Reward.”

Cabernet franc is a variety that unleashes myriad expressions – from red fruits and floral notes in a crunchy drink-now or nouveau style, through to black fruits and notes of cedar, herbs and pepper, with a savoury drive to the finish in more ageworthy examples. Either way, it’s great value when compared to the quality and prices of other varietals on the shelf.

Or should that be off the shelf? A quick scan of local wine stores shows it’s often necessary to go direct when it comes to sourcing cabernet franc for the cellar. “We generally hold four cartons of our Reserve de la Cave Cabernet Franc for museum stock and the rest go to members,” says Stuart Watson of Margaret River’s Woodlands Wines. “Realistically, we only get two barriques each year – the berries are lightweight and small, there’s not a lot of juice with a high skin-to-juice ratio. There’s lots of colour and aromatics out of the cabernet franc, and it holds the oak well.”

Cabernet franc is no newcomer, with DNA analysis suggesting the grape is the co-parent, along with sauvignon blanc, of cabernet sauvignon. With some of the greatest examples hailing from France, in the Loire Valley and Bordeaux’s Saint-Émilion appellation, it’s no surprise many of Australia’s top cabernet franc producers look to these regions for inspiration.

Frankland Estate’s Elizabeth explains that her parents fell in love with the grape after spending several vintages in Right Bank Bordeaux, leading them to plant it at their own site. “Traditionally in winemaking, cabernet franc is a fabulous backbone-blending component, so it’s intriguing for people to look at the individual components to start their journey in understanding what goes into truly great Bordeaux or Australian wine.”

It therefore makes sense that some of Australia’s most prolific cabernet franc regions are those that mirror Bordeaux. These include Margaret River, the maritime climes of the Great Southern, pockets of McLaren Vale and Kangaroo Island.

This is what led Islander Estate Vineyards to work with the variety, thanks to fifth-generation French winemaker Jacques Lurton. “Jacques thought the climate zone on Kangaroo Island would be similar to Bordeaux, given the research on growing degree days and cool nights and the latitude, along with the Maritime influence,” says co-owner Yale Norris.

“Here you don’t get super-dry hot days, which drive sugar ripeness but not phenolics. That type of climate can end up with unbalanced fruit. Balanced fruit leads to balanced wine. This is a varietal that is reasonably unknown outside of Bordeaux or Loire, but there is something special about it.”

Lighter in body and tannins than cabernet sauvignon, and with a refreshing acid line, cabernet franc pairs exceptionally well with a range of foods, but it is also delicious on its own. Supple and juicy with perfume for days, it’s a great option for lunchtime drinking if you’re after something other than the usual lighter-bodied suspects (here’s looking at you pinot, gamay and grenache).

So, what to pair with it? When it comes to drink-now expressions of cabernet franc, Elizabeth of Frankland Estate says its pristine red-fruit flavours are ideal with charcuterie, cheeses, pizza or beef carpaccio. “Olmo’s Reward comes to life with time in the glass,” she says. “It’s an elegant, complex wine, and the evolution from the beginning to the end of a meal is truly intriguing.”

For Bruce Dukes, it’s all about the texture and lightness of cabernet franc’s tannins. “I love it matched with a T-bone steak grilled over the vine cuttings. That also captures the focus of the protein cooked rustically with the charming wine. The simplicity of the pairing is exciting.”

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