John Kosovich is a name synonymous with Chenin Blanc. The winery was founded in 1922 by Ivan Kosovich, John Kosovich’s father and a Croatian immigrant. Wine is still made in the original winery, and if you happen to visit the Swan Valley, the underground cellar door is a living piece of history and well worth a stop.
Now onto the wine. Swan Valley unquestionably produces some of the country’s greatest Chenin Blanc. Hand-harvested with all the family involved, a portion was held in French oak before its bottling in October 2022.
The nose hums with the warm summer days of the valley, the bright citrus tang undercut with a restrained yet present toasty oak. Green apple skin, white florals, a hint of white pepper, dried ginger powder and a lick of saline minerality. The palate sings with vibrancy; there’s no denying that classic Chenin acid shape. It starts with a bracing pace at the front of the palate and slowly simmers out towards the rest of the mouth, holding court for some time. The phenolic grip is a delight and this wine has an electricity to it, balanced by a plush core. Complex, layered and delicious to drink in its youth or left alone in the cellar for those aged qualities to develop.
Labelled as a limited-release wine. Though the question might be asked, aren’t all wines a limited release? You’ll not get the same vintage twice in a row!. I would assume, however, in this instance it refers to the exact parcel of fruit selected and the quantity of the wine made under this label. Just 100 cases were produced from the vines planted by John in 1962. 94 points.