John Kosovich is a name synonymous with Chenin Blanc. The winery was founded in 1922 by Ivan Kosovich, John Kosovich’s father and a Croatian immigrant. Wine is still made in the original winery, and if you happen to visit the Swan Valley, the underground cellar door is a living piece of history and well worth a stop.
Now onto the wine. Swan Valley unquestionably produces some of the country’s greatest Chenin Blanc. Hand-harvested with all the family involved, a portion was held in French oak before its bottling in October 2022.
The nose hums with the warm summer days of the valley, the bright citrus tang undercut with a restrained yet present toasty oak. Green apple skin, white florals, a hint of white pepper, dried ginger powder and a lick of saline minerality. The palate sings with vibrancy; there’s no denying that classic Chenin acid shape. It starts with a bracing pace at the front of the palate and slowly simmers out towards the rest of the mouth, holding court for some time. The phenolic grip is a delight and this wine has an electricity to it, balanced by a plush core. Complex, layered and delicious to drink in its youth or left alone in the cellar for those aged qualities to develop.
Labelled as a limited-release wine. Though the question might be asked, aren’t all wines a limited release? You’ll not get the same vintage twice in a row!. I would assume, however, in this instance it refers to the exact parcel of fruit selected and the quantity of the wine made under this label. Just 100 cases were produced from the vines planted by John in 1962. 94 points.
RRP: $40.00
Just one puncheon made of this achingly beautiful wine. Elegance personified in the glass. Restrained on the nose, slowly unfurling to offer up orange blossom, lime zest, lemon curd, warming spices such as nutmeg, cardamom and white pepper, hints of pink grapefruit, lifted notes of honeysuckle and a gentle hum of marzipan. A delicious wave of salinity that flows throughout induces a vision of the Indian ocean. On the palate, the fruit purity and intensity are jaw-dropping, with waves of flavour coating the front, middle, and back palate and washes of just-ripe stone fruit, preserved lemon, lime zest, curry leaf, freshly grated ginger root, lifted white blossoms such as honeysuckle, pink grapefruit flesh, and a subtle salinity that reminds me of a deep breath of fresh seaside air. This is such a baby of a wine, but is already showing what greatness is to come with time. A layered, balanced, and textural wine that dances across the palate, leaving it’s footprints of etched long after the last steps.
Winemaker’s notes:
Kevin John wanted to improve the breed and these small batches are made as an experimental series to make the best chardonnay.
Hand harvested on a biodynamic flower day and placed as whole bunches into amphorae, then pressed two days later into a new puncheon where it fermented and remained for a further 8 months before being bottled with-out fining or filtration.
VINEYARD : 100% Cullen Vineyard
VARIETIES: 100% Chardonnay
HARVEST: 12th February – flower day
OAK: 8 months in a new puncheon
ALCOHOL: 13.5%
660 bottles made
RRP: $350.00
A touch more golden in colour than the flower day. This is a totally different wine to the flower day, yet clearly from the same vision and vineyard. The nose is more opulent, singing with tones of preserved lemon, lemon pith, tangerine, crushed citrus leaf, marzipan, nougatine, crushed oyster shell, yellow nectarine, a hint of fresh pea shoot, honeysuckle, an intensity and depth of powerful and crystalline fruit. The palate is a awash with spice and zest, interplaying with ripe yellow peach. Ginger and nutmeg, cinnamon and bright Meyer lemon. A hint of curry leaf, mandarin zest and herbal notes linger – fresh thyme and lemongrass stalk. A powerful, yet impeccably elegant, layered wine with fine tannins and textural dexterity. A lesson in the art of precision and persistence.
Winemaker’s notes:
Kevin John wanted to improve the breed and these small batches are made as an experimental series to make the best chardonnay.
The 2021 Legacy Series Fruit Day Kevin John Chardonnay is an artisanal wine, hand harvested on a biodynamic fruit day during the 2021 harvest.
After hand sorting these bunches were placed in amphora for two days skin contact, before pressing into 50% new puncheons to ferment, then and resting in oak for 8 months before bottling, with no fining or filtration.
VINEYARD : 100% Cullen Vineyard
VARIETIES: 100% Chardonnay
HARVEST: 17th February – Apogee fruit day
OAK: 8 months in biodynamic puncheons, 80% new oak
ALCOHOL: 13.5%
1308 bottles made
RRP: $350.00
Two very different wines, and a study in experimental winemaking done right. Is one better than the other? I think these are both incredibly strong wines, and at the end of the day it will come down to personal taste. I have a soft spot for aromatic and perfumed wines, so for me the Flower Day nudges ever so slightly ahead of the Fruit Day. I’d not hesitate to fill my glass with either of these, and the chance to enjoy a bottle is a cause for celebration, especially given the small quantities produced.
Join Cassandra as she explores an alternative to Champagne.
There is great variety and exceptional value in Loire sparkling wine. Today we are tasting a few examples including:
- NV, Gratien & Meyer, Cremant de Loire, Saumur, France RRP: $23 (AU distributor - Fourth Wave Wines - this is available at Dan Murphy's here)
A great value, well-made, and accessible Crémant de Loire. Chenin blanc 40%, chardonnay 40%, cabernet franc 15%, pinot noir 5%. Opening with green apples, ripe peach, and wildflower honey, and leading onto a generous palate filled with pear skin, white florals, lemon pith, a chalky minerality and a nuttiness on the palate. The slightly coarse bead is forgiven thanks to an overall smooth mouthfeel, retaining freshness even with 12g/L residual sugar.
- NV, Jo Landron, Brut Atmosphères, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, Nantes, France RRP: $52 (AU distributor - Bibendum)
Hailing from the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine appellation, Jo Landron was one of the first Domaines to receive certification for organic and biodynamic practices. This is a stellar wine produced from folle blanche grapes. Minerality is the name of the game here; a stormy day at the beach filled with ocean spray, fresh seaweed, brine, minerality, wet stone, blanched almonds, and green pear. The maritime salinity and acid drive cry out for this to be paired with oysters. Great phenolics and length too.
- NV, Bernard Fouquet, Domaine des Aubusieres, Vouvray Brut, Loire, France RRP $35 (AU distributor - World Wine Estates)
100% chenin blanc from Vouvray AOC. Lime zest, apple pie, white florals, lemon pith, and an enticing hint of spice. The palate follows through with a consistent bead, round mouthfeel, and a long line of acid leading towards a crisp finish. Plenty is going on here, including a tarragon herbaceousness alongside the generosity of fruit. Vibrant and fresh, with great length, this is another excellent value sparkling from Vouvray.
- 2018, Domaine Francois et Julien Pinon, Vouvray Brut Non Dosé, Vouvray, France RRP: $64 (AU distributor - Mosaique Wines)
A 100% organic chenin blanc, zero dosage brut from Vouvray, this was an absolute joy. Blanched almond, stewed green apples, apple blossom, white florals, rose petals, and an oyster shell chalky minerality. The palate continues with baked tart crust, pear skin, lemon curd, sweet spices, and crisp white nectarine. A lovely texture, with a lacy and fine bead that lingers. The shape balloons, offering up a generous mid-palate weight before a lifted finish and integrated acid drive. Balanced, complex, elegant and lengthy.
- 2019, Francois Chidaine, Montlouis Brut Nature, Montlouis sur Loire , France RRP: $67 (AU distributor - Bibendum)
From the appellation of Montlouis sur Loire, just over the river from Vouvray. Francois Chidaine is well respected as one of the greats when it comes to dexterity with chenin blanc. The terroir shines through with sublime fruit, texture and complexity. Green apple, lemon juice, intense jasmine blossom, hay, crushed grass, and sumptuous honeyed notes. A full body and creamy and fine bead with an uplifting saline thread curling through the lemon butter and shortbread loveliness. A thoughtful wine.
The other wines tasted in my story below are available via French Flair and Terroir Selections.
Read the full tasting notes in this article in The Wine Magazine here:
The Swan Valley is one of Australia's oldest wine regions and is just 30 minutes from Perth.
Traditionally known for fortified wine and chenin blanc, the valley is increasingly recognised for detailed and layered grenache. The 2021 Mandoon Estate Discovery Series Grenache made waves at the 2022 James Halliday Grenache challenge when it won the best Grenache in the country from over 160 entries.
Join Cassandra Charlick as she chats with Mandoon's Chief Winemaker Ryan Sudano and vigneron Andrew Pruyn about the grenache project at Mandoon Estate and the development of grenache throughout the Swan Valley.
Mandoon Discovery Grenache | Cassandra Charlick | Taste Your Vino
What springs to mind at the pop of a bottle? Without a doubt, most of us think “Champagne, yes please”. And while Champagne is, without question, one of the greatest interpretations of sparkling wine, there is a wide world of bubbles out there that are well worth exploring.
Recently I had the privilege of attending Howard Park’s Global Sparkling Tasting, and the day provided a rare opportunity to taste the breadth of variety to be found in the world of fine sparkling wines in one place. Nic Bowen and the team at Howard Park pulled together an interesting and diverse lineup, and while some of these bottles remain nigh on impossible for consumers to source, the below round-up will give a great starting point for your exploration, and some names to look out for when you next travel to one of these wine regions. Alongside Nic, the panel included Aussie sparkling winemaking royalty and winemaker at House of Arras Ed Carr, alongside Western Australia’s own Erin Larkin, who writes and reviews on the global stage for The Wine Advocate.
With 23 wines tasted in total, as well as a few fun dosage vs non-dosage examples, I’m going to break this post into two parts. The world of sparkling wine is a vast one, and hopefully, in the next few minutes of reading, you’ll be inspired to head out and try something new the next time you reach for a bottle of bubbles.
BRACKET 1 - AVANT-GARDE SPARKLING
Avant-garde sparkling wine is where the experimental wines and curveballs sit. Yes, there were several pet nats with varying degrees of character, but this bracket also had a few enjoyable surprises. In Ed’s words, “these wines make a lot of noise”. Whether you are a purist and enjoy the classic sparkling expressions, or you’re a fan of the natural wine movement and alternative winemaking methods, there is certainly a place for wines of this style, and if a wine is delicious then it should always have a place at the table and in the marketplace.
I’ll share my thoughts below:
2021 Ravensworth Riesling Ancestral – Australia
One of Australia’s best examples of the pet nat, or method ancestral method. Nashi pear on the nose, with a crunchy fresh palate. Perhaps a touch thin, but with juicy acidity that creeps up the sides of the mouth. Oodles of texture, with a hint of ripe pineapple giving way to a savoury finish. If I’m going to crack open a bottle of pet nat on a hot summer’s day, this is the type of bottle I’d like to enjoy. 89 points.
NV Follador Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze D.O.C.G. – Italy
A highlight of this bracket and a unique winemaking technique. Grapes are frozen and the juice is extracted as close to the skin as possible. Six months of aging in Charmat tanks provides a creaminess that isn’t the norm for prosecco. Pale lemon in colour with a less pronounced, yet thoroughly enjoyable effervescence. The nose is heady ambrosia, lifted with white florals layered on top of tinned pears and a restrained nuttiness. Ripe apricots and luscious honeyed notes await on the palate. A textural delight, this has length and weight that belies its brightness. 94 points.
2018 Colet-Navazos Extra Brut – Spain
Mid gold and packs a punch with tertiary autolytic notes, and a ripe fruit spectrum. Close your eyes and it’s like walking into a spice bazaar. Cinnamon, clove, and cardamom for a start. Macerated pears, pink lady apples, butterscotch and a distinct flor-type note on the palate. This makes complete sense given that the wine is crafted with a dosage from sherry, it’s aged in sherry barrels, and it has been fermented with a flor yeast. A vibrant and interesting wine – bring it to a dinner party and you’ll have guests stumped. I’m a fan. 93 points.
2018 Benoit Lahaye Jardin de la Grosse Pierre – France
A field blend in a pale shade of copper and a touch of cloudiness. The nose is resplendent with candied nuts, chestnut honey, white florals and a slight note of kerosene. An explosion of pear skin, spice, and nutty autolysis in the mouth finishing with a hint of balsamic. Impressive length and a chalky texture. Pear cider for grownups. 92 points.
2014 Podere Pradarolo Vej Metodo Classiic – Italy
N/A
NV Gosset 12 Ans de Cave 4 Minima – France
The oldest champagne house, Gosset was founded in 1584 by Pierre Gosset and while the production quantities have never been sizeable, the quality has been consistently impressive. Only 12,000 bottles of this wine were made: bottles in 2007 and disgorged in 2019, it’s an example of how long lees aging can impact a wine that hasn’t undergone malolactic fermentation. Light gold in colour, the nose opens up with floral honey notes and nougat. This wine is all about autolysis, with flavours of lemon curd, marzipan, fuzzy apple notes and chewy nougat.
This article was first published in Escape Magazine. See the original here.
As the rest of the world opens and our phones are flooded with photos of European holidays, it’s hard not to feel a heady mix of nostalgia and envy. Yes, we may live in the Lucky Country, but there’s something about long summer days spent picnicking on fresh baguettes and rosé, followed by a stroll through grassy meadows with French chatter drifting on the breeze.
Ferguson Valley and the Geographe Wine Region, two hours south of my home town Perth, had been on my radar for the past few years, but the timing had never been right to visit. A last -minute trip to Greece, a well overdue flight back to London, and even just a city break to the other side of the country meant that this little gem of West Australian countryside has eluded me. Until now.
Ferguson Valley is a pocket of rolling hillsides flecked with orchards, wineries nestled among valleys and a hub of creative artisans and culinary enthusiasts. Only 20 minutes from the heart of Bunbury, it’s worthy of much more than a day trip “down south” from WA’s capital.
My adventure here was to last three days, but it would be easy to spend an entire week pottering country lanes, picnicking in fields of daisies, gathering handfuls of avocados and apples and of course, sampling award-winning wines – many which are made with lesser-known varietals such as Touriga Nacional, Tempranillo and Grenache.
There couldn’t be a better entry point to the valley than Green Door Wines, a boutique family producer with what has to be one of the most picturesque cellar doors in Australia. (You’ll have to book in advance, though that goes without saying for most wining, dining, and experiential offerings in this post-Covid world.)
It’s quickly apparent where the winery’s name comes from: an imported Moroccan green door reaches floor to ceiling and sets the tone for the Spanish wine varietals to come. Being a huge fan of the humble quiz night, I took up the black glass tasting challenge, where the wines are served “blind” so you must guess what is in front of you based on smell, taste and texture. There were certainly a few surprises, and it’s an ideal way to work up an appetite for one of the delectable grazing plates on the menu.
Thanks to the climate, the soils and the differentiation of aspects, some superb wines are being produced in the Geographe Wine Region. With 28 cellar doors, there is no shortage to choose from, but it’s a good idea to tee up a tasting with lunch at one that provides food. The eco-built straw bale cellar door at Coughlan Estate ticks all the boxes; its menu items are made on site – down to the crackers. As a bonus, if you are travelling with a dog, your furry friend will have their own menu to choose from.
There are plenty of gluten-free options on the human list, and while wine and cake isn’t a typical pairing (sweets can make the wine taste more bitter), I couldn’t go past the freshly baked plum and jam cake.
Nearby is the food bowl of Donnybrook, where the service station doubles as a fresh food grocer and has avocados in place of the usual lollies on the counter. Western Australia’s apple production is centred in the town, and if you time your trip well – from March to May – you can pick your own fruit.
Pop a little further down towards the coast if you’d like a more elaborate lunch at Capel Vale Winery. While the interiors are a little dated, you’ll dine right over the top of the vines and the food matching menu is well-crafted and generous. Could there be a better match for Malbec than a plate of pan-fried duck breast, served with wild fig and confit duck leg wrapped in brick pastry?
Luckily for those of us who have an insatiable curiosity to try as much local produce on holiday as possible, there is an abundance of ways to explore the natural beauty of the region and work up a sweat in the process. I’ll certainly go back with a mountain bike to test out the new multi-million dollar trails; in the meantime, the hiking shoes got a workout in Wellington National Park. A perfect starting point is the Wellington Park Dam, where the largest mural in the world, sitting at 8000sq m, was completed in February 2021 by Australian artist Guido Van Helten. The vast photorealistic artwork shares the stories of people who have called this region home and whose lives have been deeply linked with the Collie River and the area’s waterways.
Our lodging for the evening is one of the homeliest B&Bs I’ve had the joy of staying at. Peppermint Lane Lodge is tucked away along the river banks of the Ferguson River, and owners Kim and Simon Wesley are not only warm and welcoming hosts (taking us on a scenic drive of the best viewpoints), but they also love to cook. A restful and peaceful night in a self-contained cottage is followed by a home-cooked breakfast and a serenade of birdsong. Fresh eggs were collected from the chicken coop as we sipped coffee from family heirloom cups and ate poached fruit from the garden.
If you still have room in the belly after breakfast, pop down the road to the Dardanup Bakery where the bread, cakes, pastries and pies are so delicious that it’s not uncommon for them to sell out by lunchtime. Just around the corner is the Dardy Country Pub, where publican Anthony Smith isn’t afraid to dole out the banter with a fabulous sense of humour and country hospitality. The pub also stakes a claim for the best chicken parmi in the South West. A 20-minute drive from Dardanup, in Wellington Mill, is Gnomesville. More than 10,000 garden gnomes live here, with visitors adding new friends daily to the collection which is tucked under bushes, on logs and into the nooks and crannies of the tree-lined paths.
There’s always time for a few more winery visits and it’s hard to go past Talisman, a vineyard scooping up awards faster than it can make wine. It has a postcard-worthy view over the dam, and it’s hard to drag yourself away from the serenity of the deck. Willow Bridge is another picturesque winery, while St Aidan Wines is open seven days a week for tastings and a bite to eat. Many venues are only open for part of the week or by appointment, like at Mazza Wines which offers the wine-curious a fantastic educational experience on Spanish and Portuguese varietals. But time your trip with the region’s Lost and Found Festival, which was held for the first time last September, and you might see behind normally closed doors.
While a trip to the old-world delights of Europe might be off the cards for a little longer; after my visit here I feel that my wanderlust has been sated for a little longer. Part of the joy of travel is leaving the familiar behind, and with a glass of Mazza Wines Graciano in hand back on the comfort of my couch at home, I feel like I’ve been on an adventure far further afield.
The writer was a guest of Tourism WA.
This article was first published in the August/September edition of The Wine Magazine (Gourmet Traveller Wine). See the original here.
It’s not all stunning scenery and superb cool-climate wines in the north of Tasmania. Just kidding: that’s exactly what awaits – and more – in this richly diverse region of Australia.
From the moment you step off the tarmac in Tassie, there’s something distinctively different about this corner of Australia. Yes, the scent of eucalypt in the air and the ‘Lookout for roos’ road signs are clear pointers you’ve not crossed international borders, but the air seems fresher – the southerly breeze hits Hobart after travelling just 5,785km from Antarctica’s icy peaks. The island’s landmass is incredibly diverse from rainforests to snow-capped mountains. And the people of Tasmania? Well, they have a quiet confidence that would win the World Cup if warm hospitality and pride in produce were a sport. You’ll want to put aside at least 48 hours to explore the wineries of Northern Tasmania from a home base in Launceston. With a couple of days up your sleeve, you’ll barely scrape the sides of the region, so don’t be surprised that you’ve booked a return trip before departure.
Day One
There’s no better way to kick off a weekend in Launceston than with a refreshing walk along the Cataract Gorge. Starting in the heart of town, take the time to walk towards the botanical gardens and back to grab a caffeine hit. Coffee is taken seriously in Tassie – after all, it is only an hour from Melbourne by plane. Sweet Brew ( sweetbrew.com.au) is a caffeine haven, while if you like freshly baked pastries and house-churned butter with your coffee, then Bread and Butter ( breadandbuttertasmania.com.au) is a must. The warehouse-style space with smiling staff and hot buttery aromas wafting from behind the counter is topped off with bottomless filter coffee.
As the Tamar River twists and turns its way down from the Bass Strait, it slices the land in two, crafting some very different aspects for wine growing. Wind (or should that be wine?) your way up the eastern side of the river, toward Piper’s Brook where some of the region’s oldest vineyards sit. A late morning venture up the driveway of Sinapius ( sinapius.com.au) is a jaw-dropping start to any journey. The drystone walls were painstakingly handmade by the original founders, however, it was Linda Morice and her late husband Vaughn Dell who fell in love with the site and took over in 2005, beginning a period of radical vineyard transformation.
Morice is a woman of strength and genuine hospitality. “Sinapius was driven by my husband wanting to push the boundaries and see what can be done. So much wine in Tasmania has been made traditionally; my husband travelled a lot and researched a lot and would ask, ‘Why can’t we try that?’ The only way you find out is by trying it. Luckily we grow the wine as well as make the wine, so we get to see the full circle. It doesn’t matter if we are making small runs of wine; they are interesting and so much more enjoyable. You are also genuinely responding to the year you get. It’s a story and a reflection of the year that was, and a reminder that some things are out of our control.”
The bright and open cellar door was renovated a couple of years ago and reflects the wine produced here – pure, elegant and evocative of the vineyard it comes from. “It’s important that you see the vines from the cellar door.” Tastings are A$15 and include a sample of six wines from across the range. “We aim to produce super-premium wines that are interesting, distinctive and really speak of where they were grown and how they were grown. There’s a creative element that also comes in – we’ve got 14 varieties in high-density plantings here.”
Next up, head to neighbouring winery Delamere ( delamerevineyards.com.au). Shane Holloway and Fran Austin purchased the estate after having their eye on it for some time. With 15 years under their belt at their winery and a wealth of experience prior (Holloway was winemaker at Dalrymple and Austin at Bay of Fires), they have seen a big shift.
“People are now travelling specifically to come and see the wine and what’s going on,” Holloway says. “We’ve become a lot more destination-based. And as a result, the wine business is starting to reflect that. Tassie is less than one per cent of the Australian wine industry but we have a demand that’s five or six per cent. It’s a good problem to have as a producer.”
Sparkling wine makes up most of the production, with the traditional method completed on-site; Holloway is a big advocate of the importance of locality when it comes to wine. “I think the biggest thing that we miss with terroir is that it also reflects the culture in which a wine is made,” he says. “I think that cultural aspect to wine is probably more important than anything else.” The community that has developed the wine industry in Northern Tasmania is as much a part of the terroir as the soil. “We don’t care what anyone thinks, we just go and make wine and then we go and find like-minded people that like what we do. And I think that’s healthy because provenance is still a really important part of every single one of our brands. It gives a sense of place; you’re now seeing there is a new wave of winemaking that is happening.”
To finish up, settle in for a tasting flight (booking is essential and starts at A$15), find a spot to relax in the garden and pick your picnic from the fridge, with local producers on offer such as Bay of Fires Cheese, Casalinga Gourmet Meats, and Coal River Farm.
Once you get back to town, pop into The Pinot Shop to peruse a few more shelves of great local wine before heading onto Havilah ( havilahwine.com.au) for one last tasting of the day and a casual dinner at this relatively new to the scene wine bar/shop. Cellar Door Sundays are when you’ll find the venue operating as a cellar door for their two wine brands. Walk-ins are welcome, and there are plenty of veggie options alongside charcuterie and an enviable French cheese selection.
Day Two
By now, you’ll have a taste of the generosity of the people and the produce in Northern Tasmania. This itinerary is as much about the wines as it is about the people and these are all intimate, small family producers. Many of them sell out each vintage, as the wines are made with heart and soul, and speak of the place – fruit intensity here is at a peak and there is a distinctive difference from the southern parts of the state.
Kick-off with a choice between two wineries to start the day. Start at Holm Oak ( holmoakvineyards.com.au) from 11am for a seated flight at Bec and Tim Duffy’s winery, where they have been crafting wine with love since 2006. Take a pinot ‘Winemaker’s Choice’ flight, or take your pick of eight wines from the range which is increasingly focused on utilising natural ferments and clonal variation when it comes to pinot.
Alternatively, head to the furthermost winery of the trip at Ghost Rock Winery ( ghostrock.com.au), before winding your way back to Launceston. It’s about an hour’s drive to get there, but the journey is well worth it – not only for the wines but also for the sunlit eatery with sweeping views. If you skipped breakfast, now’s the time for a bite to eat with your vino, otherwise simply taste through the collection. Bookings are essential for both lunch and tastings, and are available from 12 pm.
The next stop is about a 25-minute drive from Holm Oak, and one of Tasmania’s most sustainable cellar doors. Moores Hill Winery ( mooreshill.com.au) is completely powered by 108 solar panels and collects all of its roof water. Wastewater is treated on-site and conservation is always the aim when possible. Winemaker Julian Allport has finessed the application of their philosophy down to the smallest of details, with both hands firmly in the action from start to finish. The intimate cellar door is cosy in the cooler weather, and open and breezy on warmer days. Wine flights are best complemented with a light lunch of a grazing board or seafood plate.
The final stop has won accolades not just for its wine, but also the newly minted cellar door. Sweeping views stretch from Stoney Rise (stoneyrise.com) and you’d be hard-pressed to find a more heavenly way to finish the day – especially when the sun is shining. The stylish and geometric lines of the building are softened with indoor plants while floor-to-ceiling windows frame the postcard-worthy views. Winemaker and owner Joe Holyman tells me, “We opened a year ago. The concept was that we don’t want it to be like anyone else’s cellar door. Our thought was that we have a proper wine list. It’s almost like a wine bar rather than a cellar door.”
If you’re feeling peckish, enjoy a mid-afternoon snack (food orders close at 3 pm). French cheeses and imported La Belle-iloise sardines, Fork It Farm pâté de tête and roast pistachios. Simple pleasures such as these provide the ideal accompaniment to the international wine list.
Bottles for the Boot
2020 Sinapius Clem, A$38
A field blend of seven low-yielding varieties, the fruit enjoys a natural ferment on skins for 12 days, producing an interesting orange wine with persistent flavour intensity.
2019 Sinapius Close Planted Chardonnay, A$57
Full malo, wild yeast and fruit from high density plantings. A chardonnay with gentle acidity, well balanced and a sense of effortless clarity. The work in the vineyard is apparent in the fruit. Think grapefruit and oyster shell.
2015 Delamere Blanc de Blancs, A$70
There’s an elegance and delicacy to the chardonnay in this méthode champenoise blanc de blancs. Complexity and length with classic oyster shell minerality.
2018 Delamere Hurlo’s Rosé, A$80
A serious Australian rosé. Savoury, complex and ageworthy – almost chardonnay-like in its complexity and weight. Whole bunch pressed, wild ferment and a year in barrel lets the intensity of the fruit sing. Great length, too.
2020 Stoney Rise Pinot Noir, A$32
A great value pinot from northern Tassie. A drink now, approachable pinot with mouth-watering acidity and layers of flavour that belie the price point. At 11.5% it’s also the perfect lunchtime drop. This wine makes up 70% of Stoney Rise’s total annual production.
2021 Stoney Rise Grüner Veltliner, A$32
Do yourself a favour and try this wine. Green apple, almond, and oodles of texture thanks to a healthy dose of lees stirring. Holyman suggests pairing with abalone, and abalone is always a good idea.
2019 Haddow & Dineen Private Universe Pinot Noir, A$50
Jeremy Dineen’s touch is evident in this sublime pinot. Whole bunch ferment from a unique site. Intense, structured, thoughtful. They don’t have a cellar door so keep an eye out for this label.
2019 Haddow & Dineen Grain of Truth Pinot Gris, A$50
A stellar wine from this producer. A little bit of malo and a complexity of flavour bursting with fresh peach, bright apple, honeyed nuts. Textural and intense with a piercing purity of fruit at its heart.
2021 Ghost Rock Supernatural Pét-Nat, A$30
A fun wine and dangerously easy to drink. The field blend of pinot noir, chardonnay and sav blanc is an electric shade of flamingo pink. A whack of pomegranate on the nose is followed by gentle fizz that hits the back palate.
2021 Ghost Rock Supernatural Pinot Noir, A$30
Wild ferment, no fining, no filtration, low SO2 and packs a flavour punch for a pinot under the $30 mark. Vibrant red fruit and black pepper. Equally delicious chilled.
2019 Holm Oak Wizard Pinot Noir, A$65
A merry-go-round of chocolate and macerated strawberries, raspberries and a hint of liquorish, juniper and spice among the earthiness. A nice amount of grip on the palate and a lingering finish.
2021 Moores Hill Riesling $35
A lick of residual sugar is perfectly balanced with a clean acid drive. White florals give way to a mouth-watering plate of lemon and lime. This wine is crying out for a plate of oysters.
This article was first published in the winter 2021 edition of Halliday Magazine. See the original story here.
Better quality, better consistency and better value than ever. Pinot’s star is shining bright, and producers are selling out of wine faster than they can make it.
Scroll through the alphabet of Australian wine, and it’s just over halfway through when many of Australia’s winemakers’ eyes light up. Simply put, pinot has it all. As Yarra Yering’s winemaker Sarah Crowe says, “for me it’s the red wine that I drink the most, simply because it’s so enjoyable. I love pinot’s medium-bodied nature and the fragrance; it suits all year and just about every cuisine.” Of course, good pinot often has a price tag to match: it’s a fickle grape, and has a high production cost. However, with advances in viticulture and winemaking technology, along with vine age, many producers are proving that there’s now affordability to the variety.
Sometimes, it’s easier to get a snapshot of a scene when you aren’t in it, so I’ve started this deep dive far from pinot country. Sitting in the heart of Margaret River with Karen Gough of Settlers Tavern, she shares, “my wine list is all the things that do it for me; it’s about the winemakers and their stories.” And, of course, great wine. Cracking open a couple of bottles from Jane Eyre, the Australian winemaker making waves in Burgundy having won the exalted Negociant of the Year award by the Revue du Vin de France, the question arises, how does Australian pinot sit alongside the best of the world?
For the past fifteen years, Jane’s been living in Burgundy, returning annually to her roots in Gippsland to produce an Australian vintage under her label. “I go home every year - this is the first time I’ve missed harvest in Australia. I usually go home for six to eight weeks, and really the boys have done all the hard work in the vineyards. It starts in the vineyard. Because if I can’t get good grapes from good growers, I can’t make wine and I don’t have a business.” Why not stay in Burgundy year-round, the world’s epicentre of great pinot? “It’s a more expensive grape to grow than other varieties, so It puts a higher price tag on it. Especially in Burgundy – the prices have gone up and up – pinot suffers a bit as it costs more to make, so it’s more expensive to buy. Gippsland has close proximity to Melbourne, so it’s more affordable as an Australian wine region. It’s a new shift as well – there’s so much potential which is yet to be discovered; I think there’ll be lots of great wine and pinot coming out of the region in the next few years.”
An aromatic variety, it’s a wine that personifies elegance and complexity; when made – and grown – well. While every winemaker will tell you that good wine begins in the vineyard, there is no exception when it comes to pinot. It’s no surprise then, that with an increase in interest in the variety comes an increase in investment. “Tasmania has come a long way in the past twenty-plus years.” Shares Jeremy Dineen, one of the state’s most respected voices on pinot, having recently branched out with his own label Haddow + Dineen after over a decade at the helm of Joseph Chromy. “The viticultural area in Tassie has grown significantly from a pretty small base, and we are now seeing vineyards in parts of the state that never had vineyards before.” And it’s not just the investment in the plantings that have seen pinot evolve recently; “we are seeing not just more diversity in vineyards in the state, but also far more experienced and dedicated grape growers than previously. That makes a far, far greater difference than the increase in the number of winemakers in the growing Tassie wine scene.”
So, where should consumers be looking for great Australian pinot? As a grape that requires a cool growing area to thrive, regions such as Tasmania and Victoria will always be producing exceptional examples, but parts of Western Australia’s south-west have been making their mark with growing interest from consumers. “The appetite for pinot is just huge compared to what it was twenty years ago.” Shares James Kellie, Harewood Estate’s owner and winemaker. There was no demand for the variety in 2003 when he purchased the winery, a far cry from 2021: additional plantings have resulted in the production – and selling out - of several thousand cases a year. Based in Denmark, the winery has grown to produce several different pinot styles thanks to site variety and plantings of Dijon clones over recent years. “it’s really exciting to see the response to what we can do in the winery from the consumer side” adds Kellie. “The demand from restaurants and retail has given us the funds to work on better oak and more interesting Burgundian barrels, more handpicking to introduce more whole bunch character into the pinots. People are definitely appreciating WA styles. Different to Tasmania, there’s a richness to our pinots that stands them apart”.
Dan Pannell from Picardy Wines agrees, “There’s a consistent growth of interest in pinot, but you don’t just ‘make’ pinot. We’ve been working at it for twenty-something years, and getting new clones in from Burgundy. You can’t just grow grapes, irrigate them and treat them like you do other varieties. Pinot will kick you in the arse! It’s easy to make light, thin watery rubbish, but it’s hard to make a serious wine. Complex, elegant, silky ones are hard work, but that’s the style I like to make. Vine age has certainly helped our wines get a more natural texture and complexity about them.” Like all great pinot producers, he argues that the quality of the wine comes from the vines' quality. “We are really more of a vineyard; we don’t do that much in the winery. Most of our activities are outside. Ninety-five per cent of what we do is out there.” With the same altitude as Burgundy and a similar mean temperature for most of the year, perhaps it is no surprise that Pemberton is increasingly recognised for producing some excellent pinots.
Once deciding on the region, how does the site stack up alongside clonal selection? It’s no secret that pinot producers are particular about the clones they are using; Dan has added six new clones, and he’s confident they’ve added another level and complexity to the wine. In Tasmania, where the area under vine has grown tremendously, Jeremy has a clear view of the balance of the two. “Site and season trump clone every time. If you go back to the old plantings in Tassie, there were four to five clones that dominated and a bunch that are pretty unfashionable now, but the clone is far less important than the site. The worst clone on the best site will always make better booze that someone who has planted the fanciest newest clone on a ridiculous site, and it’s a shame how often you see that. People have spent a lot more effort on the right site selection now. I can pretty confidently say there’s not much really bad stuff in Tassie, even in the tough years now.”
The increased quality of Australian pinot drives more consumer interest in the variety, which propels more funds to invest in pinot production. It could be a question of the chicken or the egg, but one thing is certain, Australia is currently in a deep love affair with pinot. Jeremy adds, “When I was studying at Roseworthy, pinot was considered a pissy-nothing red wine. You were almost ridiculed for drinking it or wanting to make it, and now pinot is the darling red wine of the industry.”
So when is our appetite for pinot going to start to decline as a country? “I’m not sure when that is going to be.” Says Jane. “Just three years ago, we were planting more pinot at Yarra Yering, and someone said to me, ‘there’s no future in pinot’. I said you do not know how wrong you are; we are selling out of what we produce, so I reckon there is. The state of play has never been stronger in Australia for pinot noir, it’s really exciting.”
The rise of pinot blends
At the mention of blending, many pinot purists will stick their fingers in their ears and cry, ‘why waste perfectly good pinot?’. However, Sarah argues there ARE plenty of good reasons. Blending the variety can create a wine with immediacy and approachability for wine enthusiasts, especially those in the younger age bracket who often purchase to enjoy wine immediately rather than to cellar away for years.
“For me, it was about Introducing a wine that gave people permission to open it and enjoy it, and I think it’s why these blends now have become so popular. They are about pure enjoyment in a medium-bodied fashion that is really fragrant and juicy.”
This article was first published in Halliday Magazine. See the original story on their website here.
There’s a lot to love about cabernet franc, which is stepping out of its long-held supporting role and into the limelight.
Often sitting quietly in the shadow of heavyweight cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc can be mistaken as a blending grape to help Bordeaux blends rise to glory. However, it’s time to take another look at this variety, which is responsible for some of the world’s most complex yet quaffable wines.
Unlike cabernet sauvignon, there are plenty of examples of top-tier cabernet francs that are delicious when young, thanks to their approachable tannins and inviting aromatic profiles. Bruce Dukes at Margaret River’s Domaine Naturaliste has chosen the variety for one of his flagship wines – Le Naturaliste Cabernet Franc.
“It’s got super-fragrant aromatics when fully ripe, and the beautiful blue fruit has flavours like boysenberries and blueberries,” Bruce says. “The tannins are soft and velvety, and you can enjoy all this freshness of fruit and many of the beautiful notes of cabernet sauvignon, but with a tannin ripeness so you don’t have to mature the wine.”
Often grown in smaller amounts than cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc was initially planted with the intention of blending. However, as Michael Kerrigan of Margaret River’s Hay Shed Hill says, as a single-varietal wine, it has found a loyal fan base. “We run out within four months of release of our Block 8 Cabernet Franc. It has a strong following and is only available at cellar door,” he says.
“I think there’s a degree of instant gratification nowadays with wine drinkers. Less people are interested in sitting and waiting for years for a wine to age. For a very good cabernet sauvignon, you need to give it time, and I think there is less willingness to do that now, hence the popularity of cabernet franc.”
Age can also work in the grower’s favour when it comes to this variety. Hickinbotham winemaker Christopher Carpenter of McLaren Vale says despite the fact their cabernet franc vines are relatively young, having only planted them in 2014, it’s no obstacle to quality. “That first year I was excited because it was so bloody good right out of the gate. With its black tea and red fruits, floral red notes and olive tapenade, it’s turned out to be a winner,” he says. “I’m a firm believer in allowing vines to acclimate to their environment, and you can see the quality over the years continues to improve."
While all grapes reflect the place they’re grown, cabernet franc truly expresses its site, as seen with a number of producers who make very different single-vineyard styles within their collections.
“We have a single-varietal cabernet franc as well as our icon Olmo’s Reward, which is a cabernet franc-led blend,” says Elizabeth Smith of Frankland Estate in Western Australia’s Great Southern. “Our 100 per cent cabernet franc is sourced from a single block and is a lighter, more delicate wine, with pretty, floral aromas. The rest of the vineyard produces a more structural expression with darker fruit and has the potential for good ageing. This is the ultimate match for our Olmo’s Reward.”
Cabernet franc is a variety that unleashes myriad expressions – from red fruits and floral notes in a crunchy drink-now or nouveau style, through to black fruits and notes of cedar, herbs and pepper, with a savoury drive to the finish in more ageworthy examples. Either way, it’s great value when compared to the quality and prices of other varietals on the shelf.
Or should that be off the shelf? A quick scan of local wine stores shows it’s often necessary to go direct when it comes to sourcing cabernet franc for the cellar. “We generally hold four cartons of our Reserve de la Cave Cabernet Franc for museum stock and the rest go to members,” says Stuart Watson of Margaret River’s Woodlands Wines. “Realistically, we only get two barriques each year – the berries are lightweight and small, there’s not a lot of juice with a high skin-to-juice ratio. There’s lots of colour and aromatics out of the cabernet franc, and it holds the oak well.”
Cabernet franc is no newcomer, with DNA analysis suggesting the grape is the co-parent, along with sauvignon blanc, of cabernet sauvignon. With some of the greatest examples hailing from France, in the Loire Valley and Bordeaux’s Saint-Émilion appellation, it’s no surprise many of Australia’s top cabernet franc producers look to these regions for inspiration.
Frankland Estate’s Elizabeth explains that her parents fell in love with the grape after spending several vintages in Right Bank Bordeaux, leading them to plant it at their own site. “Traditionally in winemaking, cabernet franc is a fabulous backbone-blending component, so it’s intriguing for people to look at the individual components to start their journey in understanding what goes into truly great Bordeaux or Australian wine.”
It therefore makes sense that some of Australia’s most prolific cabernet franc regions are those that mirror Bordeaux. These include Margaret River, the maritime climes of the Great Southern, pockets of McLaren Vale and Kangaroo Island.
This is what led Islander Estate Vineyards to work with the variety, thanks to fifth-generation French winemaker Jacques Lurton. “Jacques thought the climate zone on Kangaroo Island would be similar to Bordeaux, given the research on growing degree days and cool nights and the latitude, along with the Maritime influence,” says co-owner Yale Norris.
“Here you don’t get super-dry hot days, which drive sugar ripeness but not phenolics. That type of climate can end up with unbalanced fruit. Balanced fruit leads to balanced wine. This is a varietal that is reasonably unknown outside of Bordeaux or Loire, but there is something special about it.”
Lighter in body and tannins than cabernet sauvignon, and with a refreshing acid line, cabernet franc pairs exceptionally well with a range of foods, but it is also delicious on its own. Supple and juicy with perfume for days, it’s a great option for lunchtime drinking if you’re after something other than the usual lighter-bodied suspects (here’s looking at you pinot, gamay and grenache).
So, what to pair with it? When it comes to drink-now expressions of cabernet franc, Elizabeth of Frankland Estate says its pristine red-fruit flavours are ideal with charcuterie, cheeses, pizza or beef carpaccio. “Olmo’s Reward comes to life with time in the glass,” she says. “It’s an elegant, complex wine, and the evolution from the beginning to the end of a meal is truly intriguing.”
For Bruce Dukes, it’s all about the texture and lightness of cabernet franc’s tannins. “I love it matched with a T-bone steak grilled over the vine cuttings. That also captures the focus of the protein cooked rustically with the charming wine. The simplicity of the pairing is exciting.”